Strategies for shooting in bright sun?

**davideglasgow** · 05-26-2009, 04:46 PM

Are there any good tips for shooting in bright sun (overhead).A lot of my images are quite overexposed. I don't have any to post right now, but are there general rules for shooting when the sun is overhead?

**alexniedra** · 05-26-2009, 04:50 PM

When the sun is directly above, the light is frequently very harsh. I generally use manual mode when shooting outside - the meter frequently meters unaccurately, and the image is over exposed.

**Keith B** · 05-26-2009, 04:55 PM

Use to be the Sunny 16 rule. Shoot at f16 and a shutter speed of 1/(ISO Speed).

But with digital and diffraction I'd say shoot in AV at f11.

A fill flash would be useful too.

**Daniel Browning** · 05-26-2009, 06:01 PM

Originally Posted by davideglasgow

A lot of my images are quite overexposed

You can try some negative exposure compensation, but while that may save your highlights, it will probably make the midtones too dark if you're using a standard (typical) tone curve. What I find is most beneficial is a different tone curve: one that has more highlight headroom and puts middle gray at 6% instead of 18%. It has more shadow noise, of course, but I prefer that much more than blown highlights. You can get an idea of what that's like by enabling HTP, but the real thing requires an advanced level of post-processing kung fu.

**JesseY** · 05-26-2009, 09:57 PM

Would a polarizingfilterbe appropriate here as it should cut the light by a stop or so? Perhaps a standard neutral density filter would work too if you don't like thecolor variationsfrom a polarizer. I've read aboutpeople stacking filters,butas I moved to Seattle 5years ago I do not know of this super bright light in the sky that they speak of and can't imagine a situation where you'd have to do that.

Daniel has a very interesting suggestion though about adjusting the tone curves down.I'm a beginner as wellwith no practicalportfolio built up yet(what's above is just from what I've gathered by reading various articles etc.) but filters don't seem too harmful to me and the above seems like a good use for them.

**Dallasphotog** · 05-27-2009, 12:02 AM

Run for shade!!! It's really the best answer.

When left in full sun, I like to drop the ISO to 100, slap on the circular polarizing filter, set an appropriate F-stop for the DOF you desire and then start working shutter speed to get a good histogram.Do anything you can not to blow highlights, you just can't recover from a blown out forehead or nose.

You may find fill flash helps with the shadows near eyes. I use it 100% of the time when shooting portraits indoors or out. You may have to drive the F-stop to F/8 or smaller to get your exposure right and in sync with the flash.

**clemmb** · 05-27-2009, 12:07 AM

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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"]I have never had a problem
with the wrong exposure. I live in south Texas where the mid-day sun is
very bright. When shooting in an auto mode you have to pay close
attention to what the light meter sees and adjust for it. I generally
shoot in manual using the Sekonic L-358 FLASH MASTER and a fill flash. I
do prefer late afternoon when the sun is less intense but sometimes have to
shoot at mid-day. My biggest problem is my subject squinting due to the
bright light. Look for shade where you can.<o

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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"]Mark<o

></o

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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"]<o

></o

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<span style="font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif';"]<o

></o

>

**Bob** · 05-27-2009, 02:02 AM

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: Verdana;"]Use spot metering to get more accurate exposures on your subject (usually the face). <o

></o

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<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: Verdana;"]In very bright light / scenes you usually get underexposed images not overexposed since the camera is trying to reduce the exposure.<o

></o

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<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"]On some Canon cameras you can use spot metering and the FEL button to make multiple measurements and average the scene to get a better balance between highlights and shadows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"] Make two measurements on the highlights and one on the shadow area if you have this capability.

<span style="font-size: 9pt; color: black; font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;"]Bob

**davideglasgow** · 05-27-2009, 10:48 AM

Rebel XS - no spot metering. Incidentally, that was one of the universal complaints in reviews of this camera. Of course, being my first DSLR, I had no idea what spot metering was! Live and learn, I guess.

**clemmb** · 05-27-2009, 12:59 PM

<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;"]If you are shooting a portrait set your XS to Partial metering (approx. 10% of viewfinder at center), walk up so you can mostly fill the frame with the subjects face without blocking the light. Meter in manual then back up and shoot. <o

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<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;"]A good hand held meter will work better and less cumbersome but give the above a try. The XS should be able to give you some great images.<o

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<span style="font-size: 10pt; color: black; font-family: Arial;"]Mark

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