From an auction of a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens on eBay.
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From an auction of a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens on eBay.
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George Slusher
Lt Col, USAF (Ret)
Eugene, OR
Nothing wrong George, it's an early model of the 24-70, the AF/MF switch is different, Canon modified the switch on later version to prevent photographersfrom accidently turn it from AF to MF. I believe the same kind of switch was used on the early model of the 70-200 f/2.8L IS.
Here is the later version's AF/MF switch.
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=8566562
Look again, higher up.
George Slusher
Lt Col, USAF (Ret)
Eugene, OR
Much higher up.
George Slusher
Lt Col, USAF (Ret)
Eugene, OR
Yeah I thought about the UV filter but what's wrong with Hoya UV filter from the Phillipines? []
I've seen a lot of peopleputting cheap UV filter on their high end glass. Other than the UV filter, I don't see anything else though....
That's the point. Why pay $1200-1300 for a lens and put a cheap filter in front? Those are the lowest-quality filters Hoya makes. They may be a slight step above "Crystal Optics" and the no-name brands, but not much. If you can afford a $1200 lens, you can afford at least a Hoya HMC filter.
George Slusher
Lt Col, USAF (Ret)
Eugene, OR
All my HOYA filters are made in Japan. Didn't know they had a factory in the Philippines but maybe they are assembled there and the optical glass made in their Japanese facility?
I bought a HOYA UV filter on Ebay a while ago that turned out to be counterfeit - it softened my shots so badly I thought my AF was malfunctioning. Always found their genuine filters pretty good.
Hoya makes several grades of UV filters. The lowest, the "green box," are made in the Philippines. All the others are made in Japan. Roughly, the grades are (the numbers are the transmission)
- Green Box, made in Philippines, UNCOATED, 90%
- "Standard" purple box, single coated, 94%
- HMC (Hoya Multicoated), grey box, 3 layers of coating on each side, 97%
- HMC Super (or Super HMC), black box, 6 layers of coating on each side, 99.7%
- Pro1 Digital DMC, blue box, thin glass (3mm vs 5mm), 3 layers of coating on each side with anti-aliasing coating designed for digital sensors, which reflect light more than film
- HD Digital, black box, thin glass, 8 layers of new anti-reflective coating on each side
Prices vary a lot. Many reputable outlets won't touch the green box filters. Here are some prices from B&H for 77mm Hoya UV filters:
- Standard: $38.85
- HMC: $49.35
- Super HMC: $56.85
- Pro 1: $48.95
- HD Digital: $110.85
In contrast, you can get a 77mm green box filter for $15 or even less on eBay.
Did your filter perhaps come in a green box?
I would recommend avoiding the green box filters altogether. The only standard/purple box filters I'd buy might be their neutral density filters. For UV & circular polarizer filters, I'd go with HMC, Super HMC, or Pro1. The Pro1 UV filters have the same ring thickness as many "slim" UV filters (e.g., B+W) and work quite well on my Sigma 10-20mm lens.
I use Hoya or Kenko (made by the same company--THK for Tokina, Hoya, Kenko) Pro1 Circular Polarizer filters. They are also "slimmer" than regular CPL filters but still have front threads, so I can use a regular lens cap. (B+W and other "slim" filters usually have no front threads, so you have to use a push-on lens cap. I prefer the snap-in type, especially center-pinch, which are easier to remove and install with a hood on the lens.)
George Slusher
Lt Col, USAF (Ret)
Eugene, OR
I forgot to put in the transmission numbers for the last two. Pro1 Digital is 97%, HD Digital is 99.35%.
The UV filters that I actually have on lenses (I also have at least one of each size--52, 58, 62, 67, 72, 77--as a backup in case a filter gets broken or I get a new lens, at least until I can get another quality filter):
- 5 x B+W Multi-Resistant Coated (MRC)
- 1 x B+W non-MRC (plus 3 as backups)
- 1 x Hoya HMC (plus 2 as backups)
- 2 x Hoya Super HMC
- 2 x Hoya Pro1 Digital
- 6 x Kenko Pro1 Digital
- 1 x Tiffen (on cheap teleconverter for my S3 IS, plus 4 as backups)
I have other cheap filters that came with lenses or in collections of filters. (The "backup" filters were often the first filter I had on a lens, later replaced by a better quality filter.)
My CPL filters are Hoya or Kenko Pro1 Digital, except for one B+W MRC.
George Slusher
Lt Col, USAF (Ret)
Eugene, OR
George could you post some 100% crops of identical images showing the difference between the filters you mention? I've done some testing myself but do not have the extensive selection of gear you have access to.