Let's Talk Humming Birds

[bob williams]

Recently, I have become obsessed with trying to shoot humming birds (with a camera of course). During this process I have realized several things, but...Unfortunately they haven't led to any National Geographic quality shots.


Lesson One: with a 50D and a 100-400 (Set at 400) at Minimum focus distance--the bird still only fills about 1/3 the frame.


Lesson Two: Shutter speed sync set at 250 with a 580 exII flash is still way to slow to freeze motion-----Don't fret----Flash still works great at shutter speed 2500 at this distance (about 7 feet)---I didn't know this until I tried.


Lesson Three: I don't care how fast your camera focuses---its not fast enough unless you preset focus---then pray the bird moves into focus.


Lesson Four: Don't bother with high frame rates-----its kinda like a machine gun---If you don't get em with the first shot, the rest are wasted bullets.


Lesson Five: Humming birds tolerate big cameras, Fat guys on Ladders and will even eat from your hand----But they don't like the flash. Each time the flash goes off, I am stuck on the ladder for another 5 minutes waiting for the birds to return.


Lesson Six: This time of year (August) the flowers are gone and the birds are hungry. In May, I may have 3 or 4 birds around the feeder---in August, that number has grown to 20 or moreand they are still hard to shoot.


Lesson Seven: Don't bother with meters---go manual and experiment---start with shooting the feeder at high shutter speeds and flash, then get the background right. Finally, the flash seems to catch the bird---but you may have to set the flash at +1 or +2.


Lesson Eight: My wife said I wouldn't give out her Bird (feeder) recipe, But I am telling you----it works very well--when she is not looking over my shoulder---I'll talk.


OK, this is what I have learned about shooting humming birds---Any suggestions or experiences from the rest of you on this topic would be appreciated.





Thanks,





Bob

[Joel Bookhammer]

Well I dont have any good advice, but if you would like I have an interesting story I live in Central Pennsylvania and have had a hummingbird fly into my office 2 days in a row and perch on a cardboard calander....unfortunatly due to confidentiality no cameras allowed where I work....well except a coworkers cell phone.


But I agree with your lessons, Im not patient enough to stalk a hummingbird.


Thanks


Joel

[bob williams]

Well Joel, I do understand your delimma reagrding the camera and security--I road submarines for 10 years.----Hint---They are selling phones now with zoom and 3+ megapixels.--- Thanks for the reply





Bob

[Bill W]

Bob....first let me say; I share your obsession w/HBs, Ruby Throated HBs to be specific (that's all we have in New England, though there are occasional interlopers).


My equipment; 40D, 100-400, tripod, TC-80N3 release and a cut piece of wire coat hanger w/a business card attached.


Size; heavy crop and 100% enlargement











The HBs feed w/a a consistent pattern; sip, back out (2 to 3 inches) from source, in for another sip, back out....repeated a few times before leaving.


Set up; approximately 10 feet from feeder, attach business card to feeder (only 2 feeder ports available), live view focus on card then remove. Natural light, AV, shutter speed no lower than 200, keeping aperture no lower than 8 (as high as 13), ISO to keep shutter above 200 and metering close to center. I constantly check light to ensure staying w/in these settings. AI servo, high speed. I don't try to freeze the wings.


Flash; 580 EX ll, I only use this in the lowest of light situations. I posted some results earlier (search Bill W) asking for suggestions to handle the light wash out in their eyes. I needed to do a lot of PS to make it acceptable.


High frame rates; I find some of my 2nd and 3rd captures are better than the first.


Visits; I get 2 or 3 visits an hour in a garden specifically set up for HBs and butterflies. Boy, you're lucky!


Lighting; constantly checking and experimenting.


Food; 3.5 to 1, sugar and water, constantly changing feeder and contents to maintain cleanliness.


Shooting; PATIENCE!! Be flexible w/settings, experiment.


They are a challenge and just plain fun to watch.


Regards


Bill

[HiFiGuy1]

I just had an idea about food for the hummingbirds. Would you think it would be good to have a diluted honey solution? That would seem to be nearer to their natural food, which is flower nectar, no?


Bob,


I do want to hear the "secret formula" that your wife uses, too!





Also, since I am in the lens research mode right now (well fine, always), and I see that you guys are using 100-400 zooms racked out to 400, would I be better off going for the extra sharpness of a 400 prime like the f/5.6? Or is the versatility of the zoom so much better that it overcomes any sharpness advantage of the prime in this instance? Keep in mind I am NOT looking at the 400 f/2.8. []

[Bill W]

HiFiGuy;


Never use honey and here's why;


A honey water solution served up in hummingbird feeders can quickly become toxic and deadly.
Honey rapidly ferments and also cultures a deadly bacterium. Contrary
to popular belief, honey is not "more natural" than the cane sugar that
is sold as white sugar. Honey has been chemically altered by honey
bees: it is flower nectar and whatever ever else the honey bee
ingested, digested, and spit back out again. Honey is nothing like the sucrose found in flower nectar and white sugar.


Plain white table sugar dissolved in water in a
four-to-one solution is about as close to real flower
nectar as you can get.



Here's a link if you want to read up on feeding HBs;


http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html


100-400 lens; I enjoy the versatility, this lens is on my camera 90% of the time when I'm outdoors.....I even use it for landscapes at sunrise and sunset.


Concerning the sharpness, the prime will always be sharper, but my capture above (w/my eyes and monitor) is sharp enough for me....and remember the photo is enlarged 100%.


Regards


Bill

[Fast Glass]

If youplan toshoot primarilybirdsI think you will be better served by the prime, like you said it will be racked out to 400mm 99% and it does better with extenders. Might as well gain the sharpness of the prime in your situation.


But that'smy $0.02. []

[Sinh Nhut Nguyen]

I shoot hummers in the spring, starting from January to mid April here in So Cal. When I arrive at the location I usually walk around and pay attention fromfar awayto which flower the hummers frequent a lot and then I wait at that spot. The bird will fly away at first, but after a while it will come back. My primary lens is the 400 f/5.6L, next spring I'll try an extension tube with this to get closer than 11.5 ft





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[HiFiGuy1]

HiFiGuy;


Never use honey and here's why;


A honey water solution served up in hummingbird feeders can quickly become toxic and deadly. Honey rapidly ferments and also cultures a deadly bacterium. Contrary to popular belief, honey is not "more natural" than the cane sugar that is sold as white sugar. Honey has been chemically altered by honey bees: it is flower nectar and whatever ever else the honey bee ingested, digested, and spit back out again. Honey is nothing like the sucrose found in flower nectar and white sugar.


Plain white table sugar dissolved in water in a four-to-one solution is about as close to real flower nectar as you can get.


Here's a link if you want to read up on feeding HBs;


[url="http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html]http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html[/url]


100-400 lens; I enjoy the versatility, this lens is on my camera 90% of the time when I'm outdoors.....I even use it for landscapes at sunrise and sunset.


Concerning the sharpness, the prime will always be sharper, but my capture above (w/my eyes and monitor) is sharp enough for me....and remember the photo is enlarged 100%.


Regards


Bill
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Bill,


Thanks for the quick education! I definitely don't want to harm the little beauties, so I'll avoid the honey. I still want to get the "secret recipe" from Bob just to see what he's talking about.

[Joel Eade]

Bob,


The key to freezing the wings in flight is to use the manual setting on your flash and reduce the output down to 1/16 or lower. This shortens the flash duration to something like 1/15,000 sec.


If you then set your aperature and shutter speed manually so that little or no ambient light is visible in your shot you will have an effectively exposed the image with the flash only at 1/15,000 sec or so. The only caveat is you may have to use multiple flashes to get a really bright exposure. I have a few shots using one 430 flash that are decent but more flashes would be better.


I'll post some once I fgure out how to do it (I'm a newbie in the group)


Joel Eade