Using Alcohol Swabs To Clean a Lens

[Showtime]

Hi Everyone, I am just wondering if using Alcohol Swabs gently to clean my New Canon EF 70-200mm F/2.8L IS USM Lens will have any effect or reaction to the fluorite and or the super spectra multi coating on the front element of the lens. My Camera Technician recommends it, although I would like more input on the subject on the safety factor. All information will be read and absorbed. Best regards, Showtime.

[elmo_2006]

Yikes....I would ratherrecommend not to use alcohol swabs on any lens. A simple microfibre cloth is sufficient. I personally believe that liquid swabs or wipes are too harsh for a lens. This is my opinion but I'm sure others may differ...


There are plenty of forums out there regarding this same topic, and it seems to be a coin toss of either alcohol or no alcohol. In short, you may have a clean lens today, but what will the lens be like after many years of alcohol abuse - no pun intended! [:P]


I use a lens pen on the very same lens, but I also have a UV filter on the end.


Hope this helps.

[wickerprints]

Before talking about the swabs themselves, I should point out that the EF 70-200/2.8L IS USM does not contain any fluorite elements. Instead, it has four UD glass elements.


Now, the problem here is that you are using a product not specifically intended for cleaning optical equipment. The issue here is that you don't know what exactly is in the solvent--for example, if there are any impurities in the alcohol. More importantly, however, is that you do not know if the swab material itself is designed to be non-abrasive on the coatings.


The truth of the matter is that all techniques for lens cleaning, except for one*, slowly degrade the coating over time. Any time you are rubbing something across the surface, you are rubbing away the coating on a molecular level. You'd have to clean the lens pretty obsessively over a period of years, and even then, all you do is send it in for a front/rear element replacement (if the lens is still serviceable). In truth you'd have to seriously damage the front element before you might even notice it showing up in any of your photos. So people will use non-specific methods to clean their lenses and not observe any damage and then conclude that their method is fine.


*From what I heard, the one method that is safe is the use of non-flexible collodion. I've never tried it but I have heard that this is how reflex mirrors are cleaned. It seems tedious and requires a good deal of practice.

[Oren]

Don't!


I'm almost sure I've read somewhere that it'd damage the coating - probably here on the forums. So just wait for more educated replies here from someone who knows for sure, but I'm almost sure it will cause damage and I wouldn't do that in any case (no need to wait for more educated replies for me at least).

[Sinh Nhut Nguyen]

The thing is you've just spent almost 2 grands for a new lens, I think you can spend another $15 to get the proper lens cleaning fluid and cloth, can't you? I'm serious! [:@][8o|]

[jimr]

I claim no responsibility for you trying any of these.

First I try canned air to blow stuff the lens. Lots of times it is just dust that is held to the lens by 'static'.

Secondly if the canned air does not work I tend to use Distilled Water (pure distilled, de-ionized water). Tap water or bottled water contain minerals and other contaminates. Then with newly opened package of Johnson & Johnson sterile surgical cotton and only the pressure on the cotton should be its own weight (using a new cotton ball each time).

Lastly, if it is really dirty I use 99%-97% Isopropyl Alcohol (ask your pharmacist) and a new New plastic spray bottle (do not use one that has been used for any other purpose) with Distilled Water (pure distilled, de-ionized water). Rinse the plastic spray bottle with Distilled Water (pure distilled, de-ionized water) vigorously shaking to make sure it is clean in side - repeat at least 3 times. Now your Plastic spray bottle should be ready to use. Fill 1/8 of the bottle with 99% isopropyl alcohol and 3/4 of the bottle with the distilled water (pure distilled, de-ionized water). Screw on the pump spray top immediately to avoid dust or other particulate material from entering the solution. Now home made solution is ready to go... Do not refrigerate. Again I use the package of Johnson & Johnson sterile surgical cotton and only the pressure on the cotton should be its own weight (using a new cotton ball each time) to clean the lens.

I start at the perimeter of the lens and spiral around toward the center. I replace the sterile surgical cotton ball with each and every time. I am sure it does damage the lens on some molecular level but hopefully I will never notice the damage within the lenses life time.

Most 'paper' type lens cleaners are really abrasive and lead me to believe they will have a greater chance of scratching your lens over time.

I use lens filter to avoid my time consuming lens cleaning process. Although I still inspect them clean them when needed - usually a yearly cleaning is required.

[neuroanatomist]

Isopropyl alcohol is safe to use on optical glass with or without multispectral/antireflective coatings. I'd stay away from the pre-soaked swabs, though, unless they are specifically for optical lenses. For example, this Zeiss lens cleaner is pure isopropyl alcohol (100%, as opposed to the 70% isopropyl alcohol you find in a drug store). Note that for salt (e.g. dried spray from the ocean), distilled water is appropriate - alcohol is intended for removing oil-based residue, e.g. fingerprints.


That should really be all you'd ever need. There are stronger solvents that are also safe for use on multicoated lenses, but they're overkill for cleaning camera lenses. For example, the Zeiss cleaning fluid that I use on my 'other' lenses (to remove immersion oil from microscope objectives that cost more than theEF 800mm f/5.6 L IS USM) is made from a petroleum distillate one fraction lighter (more volatile) than aviation fuel.

[elmo_2006]

LOL....molecular level....that's too funny! Whenever friction is involved, there will always be some sort of damage doneat the molecular level.


[H]

[Scott]

Very well put Nate, kind of sums it up [:P]





Scott

[Showtime]

Thank you