I need someone to HELP!

[calmars]

Hello all! I am new to this form, but have been using the reviews for a long time. Lately I've been wanting to get a good lens to photograph indoor sports, mainly basketball, but have not been able to make a decision. I am using a Canon 40D so I don't mind bumping up the ISO because it handles it great. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!


Also, I will be sitting in the bleachers (and this is college basketball) and would like to keep purchase under $500, don't mind buying used.

[FI-Photo]

Back in the day... I shot college basketball for the school newspaper. B/W film, manual settings, manual focus. I pushed the film to 1600 and worked it a little in the lab. I used a 50 1.8 most of the time. Now for my digital 50D, I have the (auto focus) 50 1.4 and it is wonderful.


Tom

[neuroanatomist]

Welcome!!


For indoor basketball, you'll want f/2.8 at most- f/2 would be even better,even bumping the ISO to 1600 - you need to stop action. Keeping it under $500 with reasonable focal length is going to be tough. If you were on the sidelines, a shorter lens like 50mm would work decently, but from the bleachers you'll likely want more reach. For a new lens, the EF 100mm f/2 is probably your best bet; from the bleachers, you will likely still find yourself needing to crop images in post-processing. I was recently fortunate enough to find a used but in like-new condition EF 200mm f/2.8L II for $425, but that's a real bargain and I count myself very lucky with that purchase(and glad that I frequently check Craiglist). Check on KEH - that link currently pulls up 200mm f/2.8 lenses for $615 in Excellent-Plus condition, or $546 in Bargain condition - both push your budget a little, though; you can get a used 100mm f/2 at KEH for under $400, and new from Amazon for $430.

[Brendan7]

Welcome!!


For indoor basketball, you'll want f/2.8 at most- f/2 would be even better,even bumping the ISO to 1600 - you need to stop action. Keeping it under $500 with reasonable focal length is going to be tough. If you were on the sidelines, a shorter lens like 50mm would work decently, but from the bleachers you'll likely want more reach. For a new lens, the EF 100mm f/2 is probably your best bet; from the bleachers, you will likely still find yourself needing to crop images in post-processing. I was recently fortunate enough to find a used but in like-new condition EF 200mm f/2.8L II for $425, but that's a real bargain and I count myself very lucky with that purchase(and glad that I frequently check Craiglist). Check on KEH - that link currently pulls up 200mm f/2.8 lenses for $615 in Excellent-Plus condition, or $546 in Bargain condition - both push your budget a little, though; you can get a used 100mm f/2 at KEH for under $400, and new from Amazon for $430.

agree ~ the 100 f/2 is the best in your budget.


If in any way it's possible, get the $900 135mm f/2.0l usm.


brendan

[calmars]

Thank you all so much for your advice. The reviews I've read of the 100mm seem pretty good for a low priced lens. I was planning on getting the 200mm but since I just bought the 40d, I don't have the money to spend.

[Daniel Browning]

There is no contest. The 85mm f/1.8 or 100mm f/2 are your best choices.

[clemmb]

There is no contest. The 85mm f/1.8 or 100mm f/2 are your best choices.
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5D, 100 f2 @ f2.5, 400, ISO 1600


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[crosbyharbison]

Off camera flash photography is really the way to go for indoor sports...





5d II, canon 24-70, iso 1600, 32mm, f/3.2, 1/200 sec


You can get away with just one flash to start. Ideally you'd have two. In a perfect world you'd have 4. Some method of wireless communication is necessary. I use pocketwizard plus II"s but there are much cheaper methods out there. (allbeit with less range/reliability but then again how many times do you use the 2000' range?). Here are a couple of options for syncing:


http://www.alienbees.com/cybersync.html


http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/product.php?productid=16766


http://shop.radiopopper.com/radiopopperjrxsystem.aspx


http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/plus%20ii/


here are a couple of options for flashes:


http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-285HV-Auto-Professional-Flash/dp/B00004TVSP


http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Speedlite-II-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001CCAISE


here is a goodrechargeablebattery


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IV0REA/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&amp;s=electronics


You can probably get away with using the kit lens if you set the flash to a high enough power. However doing this will underexpose your background and you'll only be able to take one picture roughly every 3/4th of a second.

[crosbyharbison]

A couple things I forgot to mention:


Without flash you'd need at least 1/500 second shutter speed to stop the action.If you use a flash the duration of the flash pulse is around 1/1000 of a second which "burns" the action into your frame. Even though the camera is set to your maximum flash sync speed of 1/250 you will get roughly the same motion-stopping capabilities as if your camera were set to 1/1000.


You'll want to position your flash(es) high up and down if possible. I usually jury rig something different every time. I've gotten good results not positioning the flashes at a high angle but if you can go for it. Sometimes I tape the flashes to the bleachers, sometimes I use a tripod. Tonight I used a monopod taped to a light fixture taped to a railing.


Never shoot into your light source. if you position your flashes on either side of the hoop sitting under the net would be ideal.


You say you'd be shooting from the bleachers. In that case you'd put your flash in the corner on a bleacher railing pointed toward the keep.


Your going to want to use manual mode. set the shutter speed to your maximum flash sync speed (for you its 1/250) set your aperture to the lowest value and your iso to the maximum acceptable level. Then set your flash(es) to anadequatepower setting so your image is properly exposed.





Best of luck! Let me know if you need me to elaborate on anything.