Switch from JPEG to RAW by pressing the set butten C.Fn iV-4 / 2

[Roland Scheiner]

Spending two weeks with a professional photographer who had the 1DMarkIV too, I learnt a lot. For instance that it is not necessary to store always Jpeg AND Raw. This is only usefull, when for example the conditions are hazy and you want to push the contrast (btw. he used often in such conditions a pole circular filter 77m-D) Now I come the point. He had set the set button in accordance to the headline i.e. the manual and could very fast switch from Jpg to Raw, without going into the menue.


I tried to set this function with my 1DMarkIV and it didn´t work. Shifting the little white bar from O to 2 (the position for changing from JPG to RAW) it jumps over this position and goes directly from position 1 to position 3.


I read the manual forth and back in order to find a restriction. What I found was, that when I press the SET-button the shutter works, i.e. is open until I release it. But function is set by Canon and existed already when I got the camera.


I should be very grateful for help, because the possibility to switch rapidly to RAW is very practical.

[StapledPhoto]

I'm not sure, but could it be that your set button is being used for live view, and you need to disable it from being used for that purpose to free it up to be used for the raw/jpeg switch function?


Personally I shoot everything in raw without jpeg and process jpegs out of photoshop afterward. The only time when I switch over to small jpeg is for unimportant shots that I know are just to go online (mostly for posting onto craigslist) or into an email and the colour and quality doesn't matter all that much. I shot raw+jpeg for a while but found I never really used the jpegs from the camera for anything so it was a waste of space on the card, hard drive and backups.

[Roland Scheiner]

Thank you for your advice. But Live View is deactivated. For a while I shot RAW and JPG. For me the capture of the camera (also the 5DMKII) is so perfect that only very few had to be processed with the Canon software. I must say, that the nature has equipped me with a very weak sensibility for colors. Therefore for ME changes are very seldom necessary, and if so for ME the processed photo seems to me worse than the original Jepg.


I will contact the Canon service station, which is only 80 km away from me. But If somebody has an idea it will be very welcome.


I never had a better camera than the 1DMarkIV. Capture, autofokus, operation, everything most accurate and fast. Sometimes the camera seems to be a little bit "over engenered" as far as the numberous menue possibilities are concerned.

[peety3]

I should be very grateful for help, because the possibility to switch rapidly to RAW is very practical.
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I'd argue that the need for RAW most likely will come up after you've taken the picture, so having the RAW will help.


I'd recommend that you either shoot RAW+JPEG until you decide that you don't need JPEGs, or that you shoot RAW on one memory card will shooting JPEG on the other. If the RAW card fills up and you don't think you'll need any of them, format and continue.

[Chris White]

I cannot advise you on the 1D Mark II, but I will continue the RAW recommendation.


When I got my first Canon DSLR I started using both RAW and some quality of JPG. As time has passed, I have found camera captured JPGs less useful or more accurately put, being less used. I use DPP and convert, after adjustments desired, to the size I need, smaller for posting, larger for printing. I have found myself using so few of the camera JPG files that I have recently begun to shoot in only RAW. If you do not feel you need any or much processing, you can simply bulk process. In addition, no one uses every image they shoot, so not all are needed as JPGs.


I have a fast computer and a little patience so the conversion time is not a factor to me. I like being able to get more images per card. I back up and save the RAW files to a couple of external harddrives as you would store and safe guard film negatives. The good thing about the RAW images is that they contain all the shot data and can be processed a lot more using the DPP than JPG images. A year or two from now as you gain experience you can go back to the RAW files and make adjustments you do not currently feel need adjustment.

[Roland Scheiner]

I contacted Canon Germany in order to solve the problem how to set the set button to switch from Jpeg to RAW. Dear members of this community you won&acute;t believe the anwer: We are not able to analyse the problem with the help of our reference cameras. We recommand to delete all Custom functions and to try again. Please try to set the Set button at first step.


So what do you say now. I have two 1DMarkIV. I could delete the cFn&acute;s from one camera. The result is unsure in accordance to Canon&acute;s advice.


Another possibility is to store one chip with JPEG and die other (with for times more capacity) with RAW. I don&acute;t know how to make that.


I understood, that Jpeg AND Raw can be stored only on both chips at the same time. Can anybody explain to me how to store Jpeg and Raw separately on two cards, who has already made it. Thanks in advance.

[Steven23]

Output determines input. What you gonna use it for? Change formats depending on what you need to output to.

[Roland Scheiner]

I should like to explain now how to set the Set-button to switch from Jpeg to RaW


1. Live view and Movies must be deactivated


2. Activate by pressing the set button; when the letters "image Size" are blue the CFn is set


3.Record function + media/folder sel. Set: "rec. separately"


4. CFnIV-8 set to LCD panel


Press the set button The graph which appears on the LCD panel shows which chip/chips is/are active and the image size


With the main dial and the quick control dial you can select which chip to record RAW and which chip to record the Jpeg


You have the full choice of all possibilities.


I thank Canon Germany for the very the quick and substantiel help. At first they were not very willing to go into detail. But after my second e-mail the responded within minutes giving detailed advice. They agreed, that die a.m. operation should be described in the manual so I recommanded.





Does anybody can give me advice which TS-E lens I should buy? The TS-E 45 mm or der TS-E24. My focus are pictures of architure withous disdortion within the technical possiblities

[peety3]

Does anybody can give me advice which TS-E lens I should buy? The TS-E 45 mm or der TS-E24. My focus are pictures of architure withous disdortion within the technical possiblities
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I have to think that the TSE45 would be too narrow for architectural photography. Honestly I think the TSE24 could still be too narrow, so you may want to look at the TSE17. I have used both the 17 and the 24, and both are phenomenal lenses.

[Roland Scheiner]

Thank you very much for your advice. I am very grateful. You are right. I bougth the 17 mm TSE today. The 1DMarkIV has a crop factor of 1,3. With 24 mm it is 31,2 mm which is really narrow for architure photography. 17 MM x 1,3 = 22,1 mm which is suitable.


Roland Scheiner