With the digital sensors nowadays being so insensitive to the UV rays, is a UV filter even required for a DSLR? And does a lens front element really need a protection and would a UV filter provide it at all? Is it worth spending on such a UV filter risking image quality?
I'm still kind of worried about accidentally scratching the front element on my 135L so I bought a Marumi DHG Super Lens Protect Filter. I haven't noticed a negative impact to image quality.Originally Posted by rohan.jadhav1980
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...protect+filter
Dave
See my photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dthrog00/
a query regarding memory card,
i dont know the diff between these 2 cards below,
http://www.adorama.com/IDSSD16GE3.html
http://www.adorama.com/IDSDUIC1016.html
please explain me the difference. and for the price of 32gb 30mbps card i can get 16gb 45mbps card in sandisk. so which is preferable for my T2i?
The T1i (I think that's a 500D) says you want a class 6 card minimum for video work. I imagine the 550D wants something similar. It should say in the manual.
i want to ask, whether transcend cards are good??
i saw a card of class 10, but it was 25mb/sec. am a bit confused for cards, as the class 10 cards comes with 25mbps to 95mbps. then how are classes defined? class10 or class6? and is 25mbps sufficient? transcend has a lifetime warranty and sandisk has 5 years warranty.
does T2i or T3i support 32gb card??
hello everyone!
after a long time, and many many diff kind of clicks, i have purchased canon 10-22 for which i was waiting since long. just got her a few days back.havent tried her much. wanna get some good landscapes. but waiting for a CPL. after a small survey i found that a CPL for UWA lenses created variable intensity colour patterns in sky. i wanna know what can be a solution for this? as i have already been using CPL on my sigma 17-70 which gives very good results with help of CPL and wanna do the same on canon 10-22 also
The only real 'solution' would be to change the laws of physics. Good luck with that.
A CPL does fine on your 17-70mm because the uneven polarization is generally a problem starting at 24mm and wider on a FF camera, meaning 15mm and wider on APS-C...your 17mm isn't wide enough to have the issue, the 10-22mm will be (although it should be ok in the 15-22mm range, which is another solution, of sorts). You can minimize the effect by shooting with some clouds in the sky, altering the angle of the shot relative to the sun (which, of course, will decrease the strength of the polarizing effect along with the uneven polarization artifact).
, not able to reach on any conclusion.and what about the vignetting caused at 10-13mm with regular CPL(instead of slim)?
now, even if i get a slim CPL, i wont get better polarising effect below 15mm, so i can save money by getting a regular CPL than a slim version.
Get the regular version, unless you plan to stack the CPL onto another filter. In my previous testing, the 10-22mm @ 10mm could handle a B+W F-Pro + XS-Pro stacked (8.4mm, which is thicker than the standard CPL at 7mm), with no mechanical vignetting.
from http://sd-cards-explained.articles.r-tt.com/, basically it's class = minimum of read or write speed in Mbps. If someone gives you an x rating, such as 20x, that will be 1.2 Mbps * xrating, but they're usually skirting the rules to give you a maximum speed, which is going to be based read speeds, not write speeds.
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