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Thread: Canon EF-S 10-22mm vs. Tokina 11-16mm -> FIGHT!

  1. #61
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    Your camera will be the limiting factor I think when it comes to transfer speeds. It's old and slow enough that any of the cards will work just fine.
    Words get in the way of what I meant to say.

  2. #62
    Senior Member neuroanatomist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ 86 View Post
    a query regarding memory card,

    i dont know the diff between these 2 cards below,

    http://www.adorama.com/IDSSD16GE3.html

    http://www.adorama.com/IDSDUIC1016.html

    please explain me the difference. and for the price of 32gb 30mbps card i can get 16gb 45mbps card in sandisk. so which is preferable for my T2i?
    Either will do - they're the same, same capacity, same 30 Mb/s speed. The 'difference' is that the first one is an older card that has been discontinued (you can see that on the B&H website), but Adorama still has stock. It was 'rebadged' from Extreme to Ultra because Sandisk is now selling 45 Mb/s 'Extreme' cards and thus raised the Ultra line to the 30 Mb/s speed.

    30 Mb/s is fine - the T2i will not use the extra speed, the only difference would be the 45 Mb/s card would transfer data to your computer faster (assuming your card reader supports the faster speed).

  3. #63
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    i dont use the card reader. i just connect the camera to my computer. I will be using this card, maybe for a long time.
    If you recommend 30mb/s, i will take it instead of 45mb/s. hope it wont make big difference for me during clicks or videos.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by andnowimbroke View Post
    Your camera will be the limiting factor I think when it comes to transfer speeds. It's old and slow enough that any of the cards will work just fine.
    i didnt get this point. pls explain

  5. #65
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    Between the 45mb/s and 30mb/s, you'll never notice the difference in the camera. Neuro answered it better in the post right after mine.
    Words get in the way of what I meant to say.

  6. #66
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    hello everyone!
    after a long time, and many many diff kind of clicks, i have purchased canon 10-22 for which i was waiting since long. just got her a few days back.havent tried her much. wanna get some good landscapes. but waiting for a CPL. after a small survey i found that a CPL for UWA lenses created variable intensity colour patterns in sky. i wanna know what can be a solution for this? as i have already been using CPL on my sigma 17-70 which gives very good results with help of CPL and wanna do the same on canon 10-22 also

  7. #67
    Senior Member neuroanatomist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ 86 View Post
    hello everyone!
    after a small survey i found that a CPL for UWA lenses created variable intensity colour patterns in sky. i wanna know what can be a solution for this? as i have already been using CPL on my sigma 17-70 which gives very good results with help of CPL and wanna do the same on canon 10-22 also
    The only real 'solution' would be to change the laws of physics. Good luck with that.

    A CPL does fine on your 17-70mm because the uneven polarization is generally a problem starting at 24mm and wider on a FF camera, meaning 15mm and wider on APS-C...your 17mm isn't wide enough to have the issue, the 10-22mm will be (although it should be ok in the 15-22mm range, which is another solution, of sorts). You can minimize the effect by shooting with some clouds in the sky, altering the angle of the shot relative to the sun (which, of course, will decrease the strength of the polarizing effect along with the uneven polarization artifact).

  8. #68
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    , not able to reach on any conclusion.and what about the vignetting caused at 10-13mm with regular CPL(instead of slim)?
    now, even if i get a slim CPL, i wont get better polarising effect below 15mm, so i can save money by getting a regular CPL than a slim version.

  9. #69
    Super Moderator Kayaker72's Avatar
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    I have the Canon 10-22 as well and have used a regular CPL on it. I don't recall vignetting being as issue as long as I only have the 1 CPL filter on the 10-22. I'll check that tonight. There are times when there is still benefit to a CPL with a UWA lens, such as dealing with glare coming off of water or bringing out vegetation under tree canopy. The issue with uneven polarization that you will have is with blue skies when part of your image is somewhat perpendicular to the sun. Which, at 10 mm, is most shots with blue skies. But sometimes the effect adds to the image.

    If you are trying to bring out detail in the sky with a UWA lens, you may want to get a graduated ND filter. Something like a 2 or 3 stop hard edge 4x6 filter.

  10. #70
    Senior Member neuroanatomist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ 86 View Post
    ...what about the vignetting caused at 10-13mm with regular CPL(instead of slim)?
    now, even if i get a slim CPL, i wont get better polarising effect below 15mm, so i can save money by getting a regular CPL than a slim version.
    Get the regular version, unless you plan to stack the CPL onto another filter. In my previous testing, the 10-22mm @ 10mm could handle a B+W F-Pro + XS-Pro stacked (8.4mm, which is thicker than the standard CPL at 7mm), with no mechanical vignetting.

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