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Thread: new 70-300L - am I nuts?

  1. #21
    Senior Member thekingb's Avatar
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    I have the 70-300L and a 7D. Back in the day I had a 55-250 also. Here's my take.

    Set both lenses at 250mm and f/5.6. That's the real comparison. If you don't immediately see a difference in the photos, send your 70-300L back. The real IQ value of the 70-300L should be shooting wide open, and in particular from 200mm-300mm.

    Then you could set them at 300mm and compare You'll certainly prefer the 70-300!

  2. #22
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    all of your responses are very appreciated! i have read through them all and it all makes sense, good suggestions by all.

    i did a rudimentary AFMA with a tape measure - found that the 70-300L was just a tad off, so adjusted the best of my ability. i got the scorecard back out, tried to find some light in the house and took some more comparisons.




    from these shots I can tell the L is better. my conscience is a bit calmer now. thanks to everyone for walking me through this.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Kombi's Avatar
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    This is where people jump back into the thread and mess with your head..


    "Wow the shots on the right are clearly the winners in this shoot"

  4. #24
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    You are lucky it has microfocus adjustment. It is the only 1.6 crop-frame that does. Had I even known what MFA is back when I bought my T3i, I may have gotten it instead.
    Canon 6D, Canon EF 16-35 f/2.8 L III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 L IS Macro; Canon 24-105 f/4 L ; Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS (unused nowadays), EF 85 f/1.8; Canon 1.4x TC Mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ flashes

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Busted Knuckles View Post
    I have to agree w/ CLS and perhaps expand slightly.

    At f8 on a crop body in particular you will see the beginnings - significant - of the pin hole diffraction effect of the aperture. This actually degrades the image a surprising amount - you can see it in the ISO crops, (set up the same lens at 5.6 and f 11 and toggle between them) and I can see it my real world shots, if I do a side by side comparison.

    I try to stay short of 6.3 if the DOF is appropriate.
    Interesting point. I am adding that to my mental card file.
    Canon 6D, Canon EF 16-35 f/2.8 L III; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS II, Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 L IS Macro; Canon 24-105 f/4 L ; Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS (unused nowadays), EF 85 f/1.8; Canon 1.4x TC Mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ flashes

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Stephen View Post
    You are lucky it has microfocus adjustment. It is the only 1.6 crop-frame that does. Had I even known what MFA is back when I bought my T3i, I may have gotten it instead.
    50D has it as well.

    If the 60D had it, I would probably own one right now, but it doesn't so I don't. Do you hear that, Canon?

  7. #27
    Senior Member Trowski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hodnik View Post
    you guys have been great so far! thanks for the comments.

    the scorecard was taken from a tripod, f/8, 1/15, 200
    the other was taken from a tripod, f/8 1/16, 200

    i shot at f/8 as that is what i normally shoot at when spotting aircraft, because as you said, most lenses are good at f/8

    thanks for the link, will read into it!
    Another thing to remember with better quality lenses is that often much of the improvement is found at wider apertures and away from the center of the frame. Most lenses are pretty good at f/8 at the center. If you want to see what you paid for, perhaps compare each lens at an aperture where one lens is wide open.

    Your results will probably look more like this: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/R...mp=2&APIComp=2
    - Trowski

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