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Thread: Mirror Lockup in Liveview Mode using remote (laptop) shooting via Eos Utility?

  1. #1

    Mirror Lockup in Liveview Mode using remote (laptop) shooting via Eos Utility?

    Hi: I'm trying to stabilize a superzoom on a tripod and would like to use live view for fine focusing via Eos Utility and mirror lockup to reduce vibrations. While I have no issues when using the shutter button to shoot after mirror lockup (first then second press) in the Eos Utility live view shooting does not function in mirror lock up. What I'm guessing is happening is that in live view the mirror is already up but why does it function differently in Eos Utility vs on the camera untethered? The obvious solution is to fine focus in Eos Utility using the laptop and then turn off auto focus and shoot mirror lockup with 2 second delay. Clearly I'm lacking some basic understanding of how this works.

    Genuine thanks, gary

  2. #2
    Forgot to mention, 5d3 body.

  3. #3
    Senior Member neuroanatomist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Boston, MA
    I'm not sure I understand what you mean...

    The mirror is always up during Live View, tethered or not. The only way to display a live image on the LCD (camera or computer) is with the mirror up.

    There are three different types of focusing in Live View - Quick AF, Live AF, and Face AF. Quick AF flips the mirror down to use the dedicated phase AF system (used with the viewfinder), Live AF is contrast AF from the imaging sensor, Face is Live AF with face detection. If focusing is causing the mirror to flip (down then up), you're using Quick AF (not what you want).

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by neuroanatomist View Post
    I'm not sure I understand what you mean....
    Perhaps, but your explanation was exactly what I needed to clear things up. Obviously I'm not well versed in the inner workings of an SLR.

    Just as obvious is my lack of understanding of the three Live View focus types. I will correct that somewhat today by spending some quality time with the camera manual and searching here. It will do me good as I've not really used video due to being clueless as to how the whole focus thing worked.

    For some reason when shooting Live View stills I thought I should be using Quick Autofocus and that was confusing me. I will change that in Live View/Eos Utility Remote Capture to Live Autofocus. Alternately when shooting the moon I will use Live View, manual focus and the Eos Utility Remote Capture to accurately focus. Hopefully that will avoid mirror vibrations. As an aside, I actuate via the wireless remote.

    I was somewhat right in that I wondered why I should be using Mirror Lockup in Live View mode.

    Thank you, gary

  5. #5
    Senior Member conropl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    West Michigan

    Personally, I would put it in "Live View" to manually focus with 10X magnification. You can even compose in live view. But then turn live view off to keep from over heating your sensor. If AF is turned off on your lens you do not need to worry about focusing for subsiquent shots. Now you can sit back and look at the back display to get your exposure right (but remember to cover your eye piece to make sure no light entering it effects your exposure readings). Recheck your focus now and again to make sure you did not bump the focus ring.

    Then you use mirror lock up. If you are using a hand held shutter release, you do not need to use the 2 second timer - just click once to lock up the mirror... pause to let vibrations settle... then click to shoot. Although your 2 second timer does the same thing, this is just my preference.

    The above assumes you have the time to manually focus and compose. But for night shots, that is what works for me.

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  6. #6
    Pat: Your suggestions are pretty close to how I'm going to do it. That's based off the time I spent with the owners manual and replies here. The one difficulty I experienced when doing this with my 500 lens was trying to keep the moon in view at 10x. It's amazing how fast it moves and I had a bugger of a time keeping it in view. Now I will be using a Wimberley head so I expect it to be easier to track.

    Thank you, gary

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